How to Set Up an Aquarium for Beginners

Why Set Up an Aquarium?

Over the years, I’ve found that setting up an aquarium is one of the most rewarding hobbies you can take up. It’s not just about adding fish to a tank; it’s about creating a balanced, thriving ecosystem. I’ve spent countless hours watching my fish swim gracefully, and I can tell you, it’s incredibly calming. Plus, taking care of an aquarium teaches you a lot about responsibility. If that sounds like something you’re interested in, read on for a step by step guide. We’ll dive into the basics and get you started on the addicting hobby of fish keeping.

What Equipment Do You Need?

This is an important part in the process, and scrimping can cause some headaches. Over the years, I’ve learned that investing in quality fish equipment upfront saves a ton of headaches along the way. Here’s some stuff I recommend:

• Aquarium Tank: Pick a tank that fits your space and a tank that will fit your fish. The general rule is 1-gallon per 1-inch of fish. And that’s fully grown fish, so take the time to learn about the fish you want. If you’re totally new, check out our list on good beginner fish to get you started. Also, this may seem counter intuitive, but the smaller the tank, the more difficult it is to care for. Anything smaller than a 10-gallon tank is going to be really tough to keep stable. So, consider a 20-gallon to start. That will give you lots of space, and a stable environment for your new friends.
• Filter: There are all sorts of filters out there: Hang on back (“HOB”), internal filters, under gravel filters, sponge filters… and more. If you want to learn about all the types, check our post that breaks down each category of filter. The main thing you want to consider is water flow and size. It’s always a good idea to pick a bit larger filter than is required for your tank size. This will help keep the water clean, and parameters stable. However, you want to know the flow rate as well. HOB and internal filters can spray in a pretty aggressive way, which will blast small fish across the tank. Sponge filters are gentle and calm, but they may not have adequate filtration for large tanks, unless you add more than one, which is an option. If you want to know more about filters, take a look at our article, “Choosing the Right Aquarium Filter.”
• Heater: If you have an air conditioner in the house, or live in a climate with heavy winters, you’ll want a heater for you tank. Here’s my favorite heater, AquaMiracle Adjustable Aquarium Heater. It’s a great option because you can adjust the temperature for the fish you’re keeping and it displays the temperature on a small screen.
• Substrate: There are lots of options for substrate. It will largely depend on your own personal preferences as to which one you will pick. But, some fish prefer specific substrates. Like a Cichlid loves fine sand, because they sift through it to find treats. So, research the fish you want and decide the type of substrate, then search for one you like. And keep in mind that a lot of colorful fish will look brighter with darker substrate or decor. Aim for about 2-inches of substate. If you know the size of you tank, here’s a useful calculator to help you know how many pounds to buy. And if this seems a little overwhelming, here’s a post we write to help you understand your substrate options.
• Lighting: A good light is a must, especially if you have live plants (and you should have live plants). Fish tanks can be pretty dark, so a light will be one of the only ways to see inside. Here is a good 24/7 timed light that I use a lot. And it’s pretty cheap for how well it works. I currently have five!
• Water Conditioner: You can use tap water for most starter fish, but you MUST condition it first. This removes chlorine, chloramines, and heavy metals that can be toxic to fish. My suggestion would be Seachem Prime or API Aqua Essential. I use both on a daily basis and have never had any issues with either.
• Net: Big nets make fish an easy target, but they can do a lot damage to plants and decor. Small nets are easy to maneuver, but require a little more skill to capture the sneaky little dudes. Consider just getting the whole set.
• Water Test Kit: This is getting a little more technical, but certain fish require specific water parameters (PH, GH, KH, etc). Don’t be intimidated, it’s not too complicated. But if you’re choosing beginner, hardy fish, don’t worry about parameters. Just keep their water clean, and do regular water changes (a water change is where you remove 10%-20% of the water and add in new, freshwater). If you’re up for it though, here’s the best kit money can buy, and it will last a long time. I have 18 tanks and I’ve only ever used two of these kits because they last so long.

How to Choose the Right Tank?

Planning out, and choosing the right tank is something you don’t want to skip over. From my experience, the size of the tank is one of your most important decisions. I recommend starting with at least a 20-gallon tank, remember, bigger is easier. It’s big enough to keep the water quality stable and consistent, but still manageable for beginners. If you have the space, go big.

How to Set Up the Aquarium?

Setting up your aquarium is where the fun begins, but it’s important to do it right. Here’s how I go about it:

1. Find the Perfect Spot: Place your tank on a sturdy surface, away from direct sunlight. Sunlight can cause algae growth and temperature swings. We don’t want that.
2. Rinse the Tank: Just use tap water and rinse out the tank. There can be harmful particles and chemicals that clung to the glass during manufacturing and shipping. **Don’t use soap—it’s harmful to fish. If you MUST clean it with a product, use distilled vinegar.
3. Add Substrate: Rinse. Your. Substrate. Rinse it thoroughly. If you don’t, they water will become extremely cloudy when you add water, or when you add water during subsequent water changes. Then spread it evenly across the bottom of the tank. Ideally, you want a depth of 1-2 inches.
4. Install Your Equipment: Just like your tank, you’ll want to rinse the media inside the filter well. A lot of filters will produce cloudy water if they’re not cleaned beforehand. It’s not dangerous or bad for the fish, but you may not be able to see them otherwise. Install the heater close to the filter inlet, this will help distribute warmth around the tank. Then add the lighting.
5. Decorate: Add decorations, plants, and rocks. These items are essential to the health and happiness of your fish. Fish can get stressed pretty easily, but adding a lot of good hiding places will mitigate most of the stressors. And there are some really great, easy to care for, plants for fish tanks. Live plants will keep your water clean, add life to the tank, and they look beautiful.

Remember to take your time during setup. Don’t skip any steps and enjoy the process. A well-prepared tank is key and will pay off in the end.

How to Add Water and Start the Cycle?

DON’T ADD FISH YET! This is where nearly all new hobbyists go wrong, me included. You have to setup your tank first, and “cycle” it before you add fish. This means you’re starting the nitrogen cycle. This is a critical step, and one that should never be rushed. The “cycle” converts very harmful ammonia into less harmful nitrates. Without this process being established beforehand, your fish will poop and eat, then they’ll die shortly after. Follow our guide on cycling a fish tank if you need more help or information. Here’s how we cycle the tank:

1. Add Water: Fill the tank or a bucket with tap water, leaving some space at the top. Pour it gently into the tank to avoid disturbing the substrate and plants.
2. Condition the Water: Add your Prime or Aqua Essential to remove chlorine and other harmful chemicals. This is a must-do step.
3. Start the Filter and Heater: Turn on your filter and heater. Set the temperature for your specific fish species you’re planning to have in the tank.
4. Add a Pinch of Food: Putting food in the tank will produce ammonia, and feed the good bacteria that you’ll need to grow. If you want to speed up the cycling process and make it more efficient, add Seachem Stability.
5. Cycle the Tank: Let the tank run for 4-6 weeks and continue to feed it every few days. This allows beneficial bacteria to grow and establish the nitrogen cycle. Be patient—good things take time, and this will be well worth it.

Use the API Master Kit to test the water periodically during this time. Once ammonia and nitrite levels are read as zero, your tank is ready for fish.

How to Add Fish to the Aquarium?

Adding fish to your aquarium is our last and final big step. If you want your fish to live, then you need to do a little more than just dumping them into the tank. Here’s how I do it:

1. Acclimate the Fish: Place the sealed bag with the fish inside into the tank water for 15-20 minutes. This matches the temperature of the water in the bag to the temperature of the tank.
2. Slowly Add Tank Water: After about 20 minutes, open the bag and gradually add small amounts of tank water over an hour. I do it in 15-minute increments. This helps the fish adjust to the tank’s water chemistry, so the transition doesn’t shock them. If you really love your fish, you can do this over a period of a few hours.
3. Release the Fish: Use a small net to gently remove the fish from the bag and place them into the tank. DO NOT pour the water from the bag into your tank—it. This could introduce unwanted contaminants, algae, snails, and disease. It’s a major no-no.
4. Observe: Keep a close eye on your fish for the first few days. They’ve had a big week. So, look for any signs of stress or illness.

Another important thing to consider is to not add too many fish at once. Remember the nitrogen cycle and ammonia, well the more fish you add, the more ammonia that is produced. So, you can overwhelm the good bacteria by adding too many fish at once, which will cause a massive ammonia spike, and your fish will die. I usually start with a few and slowly build up the community over a period of a few weeks or months to avoid overloading the biological filter. Plus, it gives you an excuse to regularly visit your local fish store.

Tips for Aquarium Care?

Keeping your aquarium clean and stable is all about regular care and attention. Over the years, I’ve found these tips to be the most helpful:

• Regular Water Changes: Do a 20-30% water change each week. This will keep clean and healthy.
• Clean the Tank: Scrub the glass to remove algae, and brush decorations regularly to keep the tank looking good.
• Test Water Quality: Use your Master kit to monitor ammonia, nitrites, nitrates, and pH. This helps you catch problems early and can usually be fixed with a few extra water changes.
• AVOID OVERFEEDING: Only ever feed your fish what they can eat in a few minutes. If you just have column swimming fish, only feed them as much as they can eat without any food touching the bottom of the tank. Many, many issues will arise if you overfeed the fish, like algae, pest critters, and parameter flections.

These steps add to your experience and will help you connect with your fishes ecosystem. It’s a time I enjoy every week with my onslaught of tanks I own. So, enjoy it and enjoy them.

For more tips, tricks, and advice on aquarium care, be sure to check out my blog.